Pest Control for New Houses: Pre-Treatment, Post-Construction, and Ongoing Care

A new home should feel like a clean slate, yet bugs do not care about your closing date or fresh paint. They appreciate shelter, moisture, food, and access. The smartest time to strategy pest control is before the structure is poured, and the 2nd smartest is before the last walk-through. After that, it becomes a rhythm of tracking and peaceful avoidance. I have actually seen tasks where a 200 dollar pre-treatment saved thousands in repair work, and I have actually likewise examined new homes filled with ant colonies since the contractor skipped sealing around slab penetrations. Treat pest control as part of the construct, not an afterthought.

Why new building and construction is not immune

Construction sites produce food and shelter: stacked lumber, dumpsters, disturbed soil, and standing water after rain. Workers prop doors open, and materials come with hitchhiking insects. When your house is closed up, those bugs do not automatically leave. Rodents follow utility lines. Ants love foam board and warm voids behind siding. Subterranean termites are currently in the soil. Even high-end builds with tight envelopes can bring in periodic intruders if grading directs water back toward the slab or if soffit vents do not have correct screening.

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The new-home benefit is access. Before drywall, whatever is open. As soon as you reach the surface stage, any correction is more costly and unpleasant. Think like an exterminator during the construct: what would make this home harder to enter, less attractive to nest in, and simpler to inspect later?

Soil and termite pre-treatments throughout the build

In most termite-prone regions, builders either use a soil-applied termiticide before the piece or set up a baiting system around the boundary after the construct, often both. The option depends upon regional pressure, soil type, and code.

With liquid pre-treatments, the crew deals with compacted fill and trench locations at a rate defined on the label, normally 1 gallon per 10 square feet, so the chemical bonds with soil particles beneath and around the slab. They also deal with around plumbing penetrations, bath traps, and growth joints. If the slab gets disturbed after treatment, such as trenching for an added drain, the affected location needs retreatment. This detail gets missed out on. I have strolled structures where the original treatment was remarkable, then a late-stage modification included a line to the island sink and no one called the insect business back. Two years later, termite shelter tubes appeared under the cabinet.

Bait systems approach the issue differently. After building and construction, stations get placed every 8 to 12 feet around the boundary, with supplemental stations near moisture sources and energy lines. Termites eat cellulose bait laced with a development regulator, spread it through the colony, and eventually collapse it. Baits are a slower kill, but they prevent broad soil applications and provide constant monitoring. In heavy clay, where liquid motion is irregular, baits often exceed termiticides over the long run.

Some develops specify borate treatments for framing. Applied to raw wood before insulation, borates permeate the surface and fend off or kill wood-destroying insects and fungis. They shine in crawlspace homes or basements where moisture is a longer-term risk. The restriction is coverage. If drywall or insulation goes in before treatment or if it rains on exposed lumber after treatment without a follow-up application, security can be patchy.

Integrated programs combine a careful pre-treat with wise building practices: cap vapor barriers effectively, compact backfill, maintain 6 inches of clearance from soil to bottom of siding, and install a visible termite shield or barrier where suitable. State regulations differ, which is why trusted contractors keep a licensed pest control company in the loop and get documentation for closing.

Sealing and exclusion when the walls are still open

The most inexpensive and most long lasting pest control is a caulk gun, copper mesh, and a builder who cares. Air-sealing and pest exclusion overlap. If you prioritize one, you usually assist the other.

During framing and rough mechanicals, walk the house as if you were a mouse. Look at penetrations where pipeline and channel go through bottom plates and exterior sheathing. Spaces bigger than a pencil ought to be sealed with fire-rated foam where required, then backed or packed with copper mesh and premium sealant at the outside. Do not count on lightweight plastic escutcheons to stop insects.

Attic vents should have 1/8 inch insect screen safely fastened. Ridge vents need baffles that deter wasps and birds. Gable vents, if present, need intact screening that can not be pushed aside by squirrels. Soffit vents must align with baffles to avoid insulation from obstructing airflow, minimizing condensation that attracts ants and silverfish.

Garage-to-house doors should self-close and totally seal. A 1/4 inch gap under a door is an open invitation to rodents and roaches. Weatherstripping compresses gradually, so start with a tight fit. At limits, an aluminum or composite sill paired with a quality sweep makes a difference. I choose sweeps with exchangeable inserts and a stiff, low-friction surface that slides over somewhat unequal garage floors.

Around the piece, insist on sealed expansion joints where possible, especially at outdoor patios that abut the foundation. Bugs follow those cool, protected lines directly into sill areas. A versatile, exterior-grade sealant limitations that access.

Moisture management is pest management

Nearly every bug problem I diagnose in new homes ties back to wetness. Termites need it, ants follow it, roaches prosper in it, and rodents are most likely to explore where condensation pools.

Grading should slope away from your house for a minimum of 5 to 10 feet. Downspouts ought to release well past planting beds, not into them. If you prepare rain gardens or cisterns, represent overflow that will not backflow towards the foundation. Splash blocks are much better than nothing, but buried downspout lines that daylight or feed to a drain basin decrease splash that can rot sill plates or saturate footing edges.

Inside the home, set dehumidifiers or the HVAC system to control humidity throughout and after building and construction, particularly if woods or cabinets enter while the building still holds building and construction moisture. Aim for indoor relative humidity around 45 to 55 percent. In crawlspaces, constant vapor barriers sealed at joints and piers, plus mechanical ventilation or conditioning, keep conditions unfavorable for camel crickets, wood roaches, and termites. In basements, insulate rim joists appropriately and solve any seepage before finishing walls, or you invite silverfish and mold.

Bathrooms and laundry rooms deserve genuine fans that vent outdoors. I have found more than one new home where the bath fan ended in the attic. That creates a sauna in cold weather and a magnet for cluster flies and wasps. Put in the time to confirm the duct goes to an appropriate roof or wall cap with a backdraft damper.

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Post-construction walkthroughs and first-year pitfalls

By the time you hold the keys, many insect choices are locked in. Still, a focused walkthrough captures vulnerabilities while service warranties are fresh and contractors are responsive.

Start outside, tracing the structure gradually. Look for unsealed energy entries, spaces at hose pipe bibs, and weep holes clogged by mortar. Brick weep holes ought to remain available to let walls dry, but they require weep hole covers or stainless steel wool that allows airflow while stopping pests. If landscaping is entering immediately, keep mulch back from the structure by 6 inches and limit depth to 2 to 3 inches. I have pulled back brand-new mulch lines to find ant nests happily developed against warm structure walls within weeks.

At doors and windows, validate screens fit firmly, with no stretched corners. Overspray from paint often conceals ripped mesh unless you flex the screen. On moving doors, examine the track weep holes, which ought to drain pipes easily. If they obstruct, water pools and carpenter ants take note.

Inside, run water at every fixture and expect sluggish leakages at traps and angle stops. Even a drip that moistens the back of a cabinet once a day can support German cockroaches if a stray egg case gets here in a moving box. In the kitchen, examine the cutouts under the sink. If there is a half-inch gap around pipes that leads into the wall cavity, seal it. The drawer bank beside the dishwasher should be tight, not an open chimney for heat and steam that draws insects.

New property owners in some cases call an exterminator when they see beetles or moths in the very first month. On a regular basis, the perpetrator is kept product bugs hitchhiking in kitchen items or seed-heavy bird food stored in the garage. Keep dry products in sealed containers at the start and observe. If you find moths, location pheromone traps to confirm the types and eliminate infested items rather than blasting the pantry with aerosols that do little to reach larvae inside packaging.

Builders, property owners, and the pest control contract

Some builders include a termite warranty and a preliminary basic bug service for 60 to 90 days. Read the paperwork. A termite warranty usually covers re-treatment if termites are discovered, not repair costs, unless you spend for extended coverage. General insect services might consist of interior crack and crevice work, exterior boundary treatment, and keeping an eye on for ants and roaches. They hardly ever consist of rodents unless the contract says so.

Choose a pest control company like you would a tradesperson. Inquire about their technique to brand-new homes. An expert ought to talk about exemption and wetness control before noting spray products. If you prefer lower-impact chemistry, inquire about reduced-risk actives, baiting methods, and targeted treatments. A great exterminator will inform you where chemicals are unneeded and where they are essential, like a wasp nest in a soffit near a child's bedroom window or a carpenter ant satellite colony in a window frame.

Price varies by region, but for context, a liquid termite pre-treatment on a typical 2,000 to 2,500 square foot slab may run a few hundred dollars, while a complete bait system with yearly monitoring can be 4 figures in advance with lower recurring fees. Continuous quarterly general pest service often lands in the low hundreds each year for basic lots. If the numbers are considerably lower, look carefully at scope. If they are significantly greater, search for included worth such as detailed assessments, guaranteed callback windows, or bundled mosquito or rodent programs.

Materials, finishes, and small choices that matter

Some home functions age better under insect pressure. Strong surface or quartz counters fit tighter than tile with lots of grout lines. Shaker-style drawers with full-overlay fronts leave fewer edge spaces than ornate profiles that gather grease and crumbs. In garages and basements, smooth-painted walls and sealed cabaret droppings and routes much faster, that makes early detection much easier. A concrete sealant in the garage also restricts wicking that draws moisture upward.

In landscaping, pick plantings that do not raid siding. Thick shrubs trap humidity. If you desire ivy, accept that it provides a ladder for ants and a hideout for rodents. Keep fire wood off the ground and away from your house by at least 20 feet if you have the space. Ornamental gravel surrounding to structures dries faster than heavy mulch. Where code allows, utilize metal or cement-based trim at grade instead of wood.

Lighting brings in pests. Warm LEDs draw in less flying bugs than cool, blue-leaning lights. Position bright landscape components far from doors and choose protected fixtures that cast light down rather than outward.

Pests you may see in a brand-new home and what to do

Even with careful work, some insects appear throughout the very first year as the structure settles and landscaping grows. The right action depends upon the types and the context.

Ants are the most common problem. Pavement ants and odorous house ants trail along piece edges and energy lines. If you catch a couple of scouts, withstand the urge to spray everything you can reach. Numerous contact sprays push back or kill employees without impacting the nest, which splits and ends up being harder to handle. Gel baits and non-repellent perimeter treatments work better due to the fact that ants carry the active back to the nest. The exception is when you discover a satellite nest in wood indoors, like carpenter ants in a window frame after a leakage. There, physical removal and targeted dust or foam injections make sense.

Subterranean termites seldom swarm inside throughout the very first months, however you might notice mud tubes along foundation cracks or in crawlspaces. Do not break all televisions to "see if they return." Leave a section intact for recognition and call your termite supplier. Disturbing tubes can scatter workers, complicating bait uptake or monitoring.

German cockroaches usually get here in boxes or used devices, not from the soil. If you see a single adult, check under the refrigerator's warm motor real estate and behind the dishwashing machine kick plate. One or two put bait stations can stop the problem before it becomes an infestation. Sprays outdoors https://vippestcontrolfresno.com/contact-us/ do little bit; concentrate on cracks and crevices.

Spiders frequently flower after construction due to the rise in flying bugs. Minimize harborages first: clear construction particles, change exterior lighting, and vacuum webs. If you require treatment, request for targeted outside sweeps and area applications instead of blanket spraying.

Rodents often test garages and attics as the neighborhood establishes. If you hear scratching at night in the ceiling of a new home, look for building and construction gaps at soffit intersections and where the garage roof ties into the primary roofing system. Snap traps correctly positioned along runways are effective, however sealing entry points is the repair that lasts. Foam alone is not a rodent barrier. Back any foam with hardware cloth or metal flashing.

Service frequency and what "upkeep" really means

The concept of quarterly pest control appears approximate up until you think about insect life cycles and weather condition. Lots of boundary products last 60 to 90 days in sun and rain. Inspections on that cadence catch seasonal shifts: spring ant flights, summer season wasps, fall rodent presses. In low-pressure areas with great exclusion, semiannual service works. In Gulf or coastal areas with relentless insect pressure, regular monthly mosquito or ant programs may be required for comfort.

Maintenance is not just spraying. It is inspecting downspouts after a storm, re-tacking a garage sweep that dragged out concrete and curled, clearing vines from weep holes, and resetting a loose screen. It is listening for hollow sounds in a baseboard near a shower, or noticing frass on a windowsill before a wood-boring beetle does damage. The very best provider spend more time checking and talking with you than they do using products.

When to intensify to a professional fast

Most little invasions can be handled with persistence and excellent habits. A few situations benefit from calling an exterminator immediately.

    Active termites inside the structure, noticeable mud tubes, or swarms emerging from interior wood warrant expert treatment without delay. Rodents in living areas, specifically where kids or animals exist, due to the fact that contamination dangers rise and DIY baits can create hazards. Stinging insects nesting in walls or soffits, where improper treatment can drive them inside or trigger secondary problems. Bites or rashes that may be bed bugs. Misidentification lose time. A specialist will verify with evidence and strategy accordingly.

Practical practices that keep a brand-new home clean and quiet

Long after the specialists leave, your everyday practices either enhance the home's defenses or weaken them. Small routines include up.

Keep kitchen area surfaces dry over night and vacuum crumbs under devices monthly. Shop pet food in sealed containers and pick up bowls after mealtime. Rinse recycling and do not let it collect in a warm garage. After heavy rain, stroll the perimeter. If you see mulch floating or dirt splashed high up on siding, change downspouts or edging. Cut vegetation so you can see 4 to 6 inches of foundation all around; it acts like an evaluation line. In winter season, check exterior tube bibs and vacuum breaker real estates for leaks that melt snow at the base of walls, a sign of slow leaking that invites pests and damages siding.

When you bring items into the home after travel or from storage, check them. Cardboard from storage facilities in some cases brings roach ootheca or spider egg sacs. Switching to plastic bins for long-term storage, particularly in basements and garages, lowers surprises.

Environmental considerations and thoughtful product choices

It is possible to keep a robust pest control program without unneeded chemical load. Select non-repellent items when sprays are warranted, as they are used in smaller amounts and act within targeted zones. Usage baiting for ants and roaches in choice to transmit insecticides inside. Dusts like silica gel in wall spaces offer long-lasting control in hard-to-reach locations without volatilization. Outdoors, favor granular baits for fire ants and targeted nest treatments for wasps, instead of boundary blanket sprays, unless there is a specified need.

If you garden, prevent piling garden compost against the house and area raised beds away from the structure. Drip watering lowers overspray that wets siding. Mulch with pine straw or cedar if you like, however keep depth modest and refresh rather than stack new layers on old, which traps wetness. Where native beneficial pests grow, you will see less break outs of plant-feeding insects, which balance encompasses the microclimate around your home.

What a year-one schedule can look like

A typical first-year plan for a brand-new single-family home may appear like this: termite pre-treatment kept in mind in closing documents, with either liquid soil protection or bait station installation within one month after grading and landscaping support. An initial basic insect service at move-in that focuses on exterior boundary, garage, and utility entry points. Follow-up check outs at 60 to 90 day periods to tighten seals, refresh boundary protection, and respond to seasonal activity. Moisture and exclusion checks in spring and fall. If you have a crawlspace, a humidity reading each visit, and a quick evaluation for condensation on ductwork or plumbing.

After that very first year, change. If you see very little activity and your environment is dry and open, downsize the frequency and keep exemption tight. If you live near woody lots, water features, or thick areas with shared walls, keep the cadence constant. The very best programs are tailored and versatile, not locked into a stiff template.

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The benefit for doing it right

Good pest control for brand-new homes does not feel significant. It feels uneventful. You notice fewer secret bugs at the kitchen area sink in the morning. You never ever mop up a swarm of termites in spring. You do not hear running in the attic at 2 a.m. The cost is modest compared to removal, and the practices you form early keep the home healthier overall.

The bigger reward is control. You understand where water goes, how air relocations, and how creatures attempt to share your area. You pick products and routines that make their lives bothersome. Whether you handle the details yourself or lean on a trusted exterminator, dealing with pest control as part of the build and the maintenance strategy protects the new-home feeling far longer than a punch list ever could.

NAP

Business Name: Valley Integrated Pest Control


Address: 3116 N Carriage Ave, Fresno, CA 93727, United States


Phone: (559) 307-0612


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Popular Questions About Valley Integrated Pest Control



What services does Valley Integrated Pest Control offer in Fresno, CA?

Valley Integrated Pest Control provides pest control service for residential and commercial properties in Fresno, CA, including common needs like ants, cockroaches, spiders, rodents, wasps, mosquitoes, and flea and tick treatments. Service recommendations can vary based on the pest and property conditions.



Do you provide residential and commercial pest control?

Yes. Valley Integrated Pest Control offers both residential and commercial pest control service in the Fresno area, which may include preventative plans and targeted treatments depending on the issue.



Do you offer recurring pest control plans?

Many Fresno pest control companies offer recurring service for prevention, and Valley Integrated Pest Control promotes pest management options that can help reduce recurring pest activity. Contact the team to match a plan to your property and pest pressure.



Which pests are most common in Fresno and the Central Valley?

In Fresno, property owners commonly deal with ants, spiders, cockroaches, rodents, and seasonal pests like mosquitoes and wasps. Valley Integrated Pest Control focuses on solutions for these common local pest problems.



What are your business hours?

Valley Integrated Pest Control lists hours as Monday through Friday 7:00 AM–5:00 PM, Saturday 7:00 AM–12:00 PM, and closed on Sunday. If you need a specific appointment window, it’s best to call to confirm availability.



Do you handle rodent control and prevention steps?

Valley Integrated Pest Control provides rodent control services and may also recommend practical prevention steps such as sealing entry points and reducing attractants to help support long-term results.



How does pricing typically work for pest control in Fresno?

Pest control pricing in Fresno typically depends on the pest type, property size, severity, and whether you choose one-time service or recurring prevention. Valley Integrated Pest Control can usually provide an estimate after learning more about the problem.



How do I contact Valley Integrated Pest Control to schedule service?

Call (559) 307-0612 to schedule or request an estimate. For Spanish assistance, you can also call (559) 681-1505. You can follow Valley Integrated Pest Control on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube

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